2/5/2024 0 Comments Eastwood glazing puttyThis is nice because there are tons of paint prep druggies that haven't the foggiest notion on how to properly feather out the original paint job in prep for primer. I especially like that you can apply many of these finer finishing products over OE paints. I can generally finish a repair faster than your average CAVE AND PAVE guy because by doing the metal work properly you aren't continuously filling low spots and hitting new high spots over and over. I prefer to spend the majority of my time on the metal work. DA the filler surface and especially the areas that it feathers into bare metal. Yes filler is expensive but time is money as well.Ĭ: be able to DA this with some 80 grit and apply one nice coat of Metal Glaze-Dolphin-Icing or whatever brand good stuff you choose. Throw away the cheese grater though, wait until the filler is ALMOST hard and go at it with a long board and some 40 grit paper. If you don't/can't get it that straight then slap that crap on there good and thick. If you get your metal reasonably straight it shouldn't be difficult to apply the filler. I wouldn't use Bondo brand stuff on my wheelbarrow. there are going to be a million shops that go out of business when they have to fix cars that have Rage Gold or an equivalent applied directly over a ground down mig stitch weld. Sheetmetal is pretty thin and this stuff, in that thickness, isn't going to have a bunch of strength.Ĭlick to expand.I don't agree with much of anything here.ġ. However, if you are filling screw holes and sanding both sides down in an effort the make the putty repair as thin as the surrounding sheetmetal I would rather weld those holes up. If you can get to the backside of any hole you are filling it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get some sort of paint over the backside of the putty repair to really "seal it off". If you are filling small pits, screw holes, etc this stuff should work just fine for you. You want the stuff to catalyze and catalyze completely so use whatever amount they call for and just use it in smaller applications. Also.don't use less catalyst thinking this will give you more time to work with it. So, don't go mixing up a massive amount and think you will have a bunch of time to spread it. So, they are supposed to be "smoother" after sanding and sand out to a finer finish.īe AWARE-these finer bodied Finishing Putties tend to catalyze FASTER than the regular bondo's will (again, I am using the word "bondo" to refer to all the stuff like Evercoat Rage, etc). These products are just like Rage, etc (the "regular" bondo type products) except I think they use a finer filler material (ie a finer talc I think vs regular bondos). These are just fine to use and won't shrink like the stuff I discussed above. This is the stuff like Icing, Dolphin Glaze (see-there's that word again!! -glaze), Evercoat Finishing Putties, etc. >"The New Version Glazing Putty"-Not really new but I'll refer to it as such. The reason you should avoid this stuff is that, like lacquer paint, it has a lot of solvent in it (vs solids) and as the solvent evaporates the glazing putty, like lacquer, shrinks. This is/was used to fill fine scratches, pits, etc.basically stuff that was missed or needed to be slightly smoothed over prior to painting. >"Glazing compound"-as referred to in the post immediately before this one (ie "avoid it")-he is referring to the old, lacquer-based one part (ie no catalyst is used) style glazing putty. It goes on real nice and doesn't shrink back like glaze. Think of it kind of like doing the joints on drywall.nice smooth even passes.Īs for glazing compound.that's old school. Not to mention, the less filler you waste. The smoother you can lay out the filler, the less sanding you'll have to do. Later they're getting out graters and knocking off all the high spots, before they even get to use the DA sander. I've seen guys just slap a bunch of it on and barely smooth things over. It has a fiberglass type base and is much more us it's compatible with the welded parts too.Īnother thing to keep in mind.how the filler is applied. Use something like MarGlass, DuraGlass, etc. Something about a reaction with the Bondo & the weld. Nick - If you're doing any filler over a panel that has been welded, do NOT put Bondo directly over it.
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